15. Chungbuk Pilgrimage and Travel — Where Korea's Miracle Priest Rests

April 15, 2026 | Pilgrimage | hellokr.kr

In April 2026, the Vatican confirmed that a miraculous healing attributed to Father Thomas Choi Yang-up (1821–1861) is scientifically inexplicable — clearing one of the final hurdles toward his beatification. He died at Baeron, a remote mountain settlement in Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do, after spending 11 years walking through persecution-era Korea to minister to hidden Catholic communities. They call him the "Martyr of Sweat."

Baeron is reason enough to visit central Korea. But the surrounding Chungbuk region — Jecheon, Danyang, Chungju — is one of the country's most scenic and least crowded travel corridors. This article is a combined pilgrimage and travel guide: start at Baeron, then explore the lakes, caves, cliffs, and hot springs that lie within a 40-minute drive.

Why Now

Father Choi Yang-up's beatification cause has been open since 2001. In 2016, Pope Francis declared him Venerable — the first Korean non-martyr confessor to receive the title. A first miracle case was submitted and rejected in 2021 for insufficient evidence. Then, in April 2026, the Vatican's medical panel approved a second case: a healing attributed to his intercession that doctors could not explain.

Two steps remain — a theology committee review and a Cardinals/Bishops meeting. If both pass, Father Choi becomes Blessed. Many in the Korean Church hope the timing will align with WYD 2027 in Seoul (August 3–8, 2027), which would bring global attention to the sites tied to his life.

For the full story of Father Choi's life, his 2,800 km annual walks through the mountains, and his birthplace at Baeti, read our earlier article: Father Choi Yang-up Pilgrimage — The "Martyr of Sweat" Who Walked 2,800 km a Year.

Baeron Holy Site

Baeron is where Father Choi spent his final days and where he was buried after dying of typhoid fever compounded by exhaustion on June 15, 1861. It is also the site of Korea's first Catholic seminary — St. Joseph's Seminary, established in 1855 by the Paris Foreign Missions Society — where a handful of Korean men trained for the priesthood in secret, hidden in the folds of the Sobaek Mountains.

The site today is maintained by the Diocese of Wonju as a pilgrimage destination and a place of prayer. It sits in a narrow mountain valley, quiet and forested, largely unchanged in character from the 19th century.

What to See at Baeron

• Tomb of Father Choi Yang-up: The central pilgrimage point. A simple grave marker in a clearing surrounded by trees. Pilgrims often pray here in silence.
• St. Joseph's Seminary Site: The ruins and reconstructed buildings of Korea's first seminary. Interpretive signs (in Korean) explain the history of the secret training program that operated here.
• Memorial Chapel: A modern chapel built to honor the martyrs and confessors associated with Baeron. Mass is celebrated regularly.
• Forest Walking Paths: Several trails wind through the surrounding mountains. The paths are well-maintained and take 30 minutes to over an hour depending on the route. The spring wildflowers and autumn foliage are exceptional.

Practical Details

• Address: Baeron-gil, Bongyang-eup, Jecheon-si, Chungcheongbuk-do
• Hours: Open daily, daylight hours
• Admission: Free
• Parking: Free parking lot on site
• Time needed: 1.5–3 hours (depending on trail walks)
• Facilities: Restrooms available. No restaurant or convenience store on site — bring water and snacks, or eat in Jecheon town before or after.

Nearby Attractions

Baeron sits at the heart of one of Korea's most rewarding travel regions. Within a short drive, you can visit a turquoise lake, dramatic rock formations, a limestone cave, and a centuries-old hot spring town.

Cheongpungho Lake — 15 minutes from Baeron

Cheongpungho is a large artificial lake created by the Chungju Dam, surrounded by mountains and dotted with peninsulas. The lake is beautiful year-round, but especially striking in spring when cherry blossoms line the shore and in autumn when the surrounding hills turn red and gold.

• Cable car: The Cheongpung Lake Cable Car runs across the lake, offering panoramic views of the water and mountains. Operating hours vary by season; check locally. Tickets are around 11,000–15,000 KRW.
• Cheongpung Cultural Heritage Complex: A collection of relocated Joseon-era buildings on the lakeshore, free to explore.
• Lake cruises: Sightseeing boats operate from Cheongpung Marina, typically 30–60 minute circuits.
• Getting there: Drive south from Baeron toward Cheongpung-myeon. The cable car station and marina are well-signposted.

Danyang 8 Scenic Views — 25 minutes from Baeron

The Danyang Palgyeong (Eight Scenic Views) is a collection of dramatic limestone formations along the South Han River and its tributaries. The most famous is Dodamsambong — three rocky peaks rising directly from the river, one of the most photographed natural landmarks in Korea.

• Dodamsambong: Three stone pillars in the middle of the river. There is a small viewing area and walking path along the riverbank. Free to view. Address: Dodamsambong-gil, Danyang-eup, Danyang-gun.
• Sainam and Haseondae: Riverside cliff formations that are part of the traditional "Eight Views" circuit. Accessible by short walks from roadside parking areas.
• Best approach: Drive from Baeron toward Danyang-eup along Route 5. The scenic spots are spread along the river and can be visited sequentially.

Gosu Cave — Danyang

One of Korea's largest and most impressive limestone caves, Gosu Cave (Gosudonggul) stretches approximately 1.7 km into the mountainside, with about 1.2 km open to visitors. The cave features stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, and underground pools formed over hundreds of millions of years. The interior temperature stays around 15 degrees Celsius year-round — a cool escape in summer, surprisingly warm in winter.

• Address: Gosu-ri, Danyang-eup, Danyang-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do
• Hours: 9:00–17:00 (last entry varies by season)
• Admission: Adults ~3,000 KRW
• Time needed: 1–1.5 hours
• Note: The path inside the cave includes stairs and uneven surfaces. Wear sturdy shoes.

Suanbo Hot Springs — 40 minutes from Baeron

Suanbo is one of Korea's oldest natural hot spring towns, with a recorded history going back over 500 years. The water rises naturally at around 53 degrees Celsius and is rich in minerals. The town of Suanbo has a cluster of hot spring hotels and public bathhouses, making it an ideal overnight stop on a two-day Chungbuk trip.

• Location: Suanbo-myeon, Chungju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do
• Public baths: Several bathhouses in the town center offer hot spring soaking for 7,000–10,000 KRW. No reservation needed.
• Hotels: Multiple hot spring hotels in the area, ranging from budget to mid-range. Rooms typically include bath access.
• Getting there: Drive west from Baeron toward Chungju, then south to Suanbo-myeon. About 40 minutes by car.

Suggested Itinerary

One-Day Trip from Seoul

• 07:00: Depart Seoul by car (or take an early express bus from Dong Seoul Terminal to Jecheon, ~2 hours).
• 09:30: Arrive at Baeron Holy Site. Walk the grounds, visit the tomb, chapel, and seminary site. Take one of the forest trails.
• 12:00: Drive to Jecheon or Danyang for lunch. Try local specialties: Jecheon yakdak (herbal chicken) or Danyang maneul (garlic) dishes.
• 13:30: Visit Dodamsambong and the Danyang riverside scenic spots. Or take the Cheongpungho cable car for lake views.
• 15:30: Optional: Gosu Cave (add 1–1.5 hours).
• 17:00: Begin drive back to Seoul (~2.5 hours).

Two-Day Trip from Seoul

Day 1:

• Morning: Drive to Baeron Holy Site. Spend the full morning walking the grounds and trails.
• Lunch in Jecheon or Danyang.
• Afternoon: Cheongpungho Lake (cable car, lakeside walk, or boat cruise) + Dodamsambong.
• Evening: Check into a hot spring hotel at Suanbo. Soak in the mineral baths.

Day 2:

• Morning: Gosu Cave.
• Optional: Additional Danyang scenic spots (Sainam, Haseondae) or a riverside walk.
• Afternoon: Drive back to Seoul, or detour to Chungju for Tangeumdae (a historic riverside park).

Getting There from Seoul

• By car: Take the Jungang Expressway (Route 55) toward Jecheon. Baeron is about 20 minutes from Jecheon IC. Total drive time from Seoul: approximately 2.5 hours. Free parking at Baeron.
• By bus: Express bus from Dong Seoul Terminal to Jecheon Bus Terminal (~2 hours, departures every 30–60 minutes). From Jecheon, take a local bus or taxi to Baeron (~20–30 minutes). Local buses are infrequent — check schedules in advance or plan on a taxi.
• By train: KTX or Mugunghwa train from Cheongnyangni Station to Jecheon Station. KTX takes about 1 hour 40 minutes. From Jecheon Station, taxi to Baeron (~20 minutes).

A rental car is strongly recommended for this trip. The attractions are spread across a rural area with limited public transit connections. Having a car turns a potentially frustrating logistics puzzle into a smooth, scenic drive.

Tips

• Dress for walking. Baeron has forest trails, and many of the scenic spots involve short hikes or uneven paths. Comfortable shoes are essential.
• Bring supplies. Baeron has no shops or restaurants on site. Pack water, snacks, and sunscreen. Full services are available in Jecheon (15 min) and Danyang (25 min).
• Language. English signage is minimal at all sites. Download Naver Map (more accurate than Google Maps for rural Korea) and Papago (Naver's translation app) before you leave Seoul.
• Quiet and respectful. Baeron is an active place of prayer. Keep voices low, dress modestly, and be mindful of pilgrims praying at the tomb and chapel.
• Spring is ideal. April and May bring wildflowers to the Baeron trails and cherry blossoms to the Cheongpungho lakeshore. Autumn (October–November) is equally beautiful.
• Combine with Baeti. Father Choi's birthplace at Baeti Holy Site (Jincheon) is about 1.5 hours from Baeron by car. A dedicated pilgrim could visit both in a long day or add Baeti to the two-day itinerary.
• WYD 2027 visitors: If you are coming to Seoul for World Youth Day (August 3–8, 2027), consider extending your trip by one or two days for this Chungbuk route. If beatification is announced before or during WYD, expect organized pilgrimage programs to Baeron.

The Bottom Line

Baeron is where Korea's "Martyr of Sweat" finally stopped walking. Father Choi Yang-up's tomb sits in a quiet mountain valley that has barely changed since the 19th century — and with the Vatican now confirming a miracle through his intercession, this site is about to gain a new chapter in its history.

But the region around Baeron deserves attention on its own merits. Cheongpungho's turquoise waters, Danyang's dramatic limestone pillars, the ancient darkness of Gosu Cave, the mineral warmth of Suanbo — Chungcheongbuk-do packs remarkable variety into a compact area that most international visitors never discover.

Start with the pilgrimage. Stay for the landscape. Either way, you will find something in central Korea that the big cities cannot offer: silence, beauty, and the feeling of being somewhere that has not yet been overrun.